F.A.Q.
DO NOT USE THIS INFORMATION TO REPLACE CONSULTING YOUR VET
This page is compiled from the many questions and conversations that I have had over the years. The information belaow is from my own personal experiences that I have had over many years of owning, training, breeding and now grooming dogs. I do hope that you find this informative.
If you have a question that has not been answered here please contact me via the contact page and I will add it if it is suitable - including your name if you so wish!
I will continue to add and alter this page as I learn more...............
Breeders
I've been told by the 'Breeder' that this pup would make a great show dog!
If the breeder has never shown their dog/dogs before then what bench-mark are they using to assess what conformation requirements will be required for a show dog.
Showing my dogs gives me an opportunity to learn more about the conformation and structure of the breed and also I have had to learn about the grooming as to why I do it and how I do it. Over the years I have been able to improve my breeding from what I started with.
Not every dog in the litter could or should be considered as a show dog - there are some litters that may not have anything with show potential.
I can't nor do I guarantee a dog to be a 'Dead Set Winner'. Pups change over time and 'show potential' depends very much on many aspects - they need that 'spark' that says that they are special
The 'Breeder' said that the 'piece of paper' didn't mean any-thing - their dogs are still pure bred!
There is only one way that any-one can guarantee that the pup is from pure bred lines and that is to be-able to see the pedigrees of the parents and to see the parents.
The pedigree takes away any confusion as to who the parent are and who the breeders are.
The breeder can't put pedigree papers to their pups unless both parents are pedigree and that the owners 'breeders' are members of a Canine Association and are 'Registered' breeders - they will be-able to show their kennel prefix name which will appear on the pups pedigree's. The pedigree's will also have an official stamp and date of transfer.
Westies
How often should westies be clipped?
Pet westies will need to be clipped about every 10 - 12 weeks to maintain a good coat and keep it in shape.
In-between grooming visits you will need to maintain you dogs coat by grooming at least each week - do this on a bench or washing machine - can use a bath mat to stop the dog from slipping!
Take special care to groom around the arm-pits, legs and skirt as there are friction areas that will cause the coat to mat thus making it more uncomfortable for your dog.
If your westie isn't groomed properly thus your dog was matts by the time you see your groomer next - not only would this cost more due to taking longer BUT you may also find that your groomer may have to take more coat out than you would have liked thus causing the 'westie' look to not be as good.
What colour do westies come in?
The West Highland White Terrier only come in one colour and that it WHITE - that is unless they are rolled in mud, dirt or something else that is disgusting!
I had a Maltese before - Is the westie like them?
The 'westie' is not anything like a Maltese! They are not considered as a lap dog - although there are the odd dog that enjoys time on your lap!
The westie are quite contented with being on the floor next to you or curled up on their favorite lounge chair - they don't care if it is yours as well!
The westie is an independent and sometimes stubourn breed - this can sometimes be frustrating for the owner! They have also been mistaken as being 'dumb' because of this - however they are far from dumb and are a very highly intelligent breed!
To own a westie you must be willing to take on the full responsibility of obedience training - enrol in an accredited obedience club and learn how to 'control' and 'train' your dog - this is not something suggested but something that is a must!
Westies NEED to be socialised and trained!
Westies were bred as a hunting dog and there-for they are fearless and need to learn who their 'pack leader' is before they decide that they are going to be the pack leader!
PLEASE DO NOT BUY A WESTIE IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO PUT THE TIME INTO THEM AS PUPS!
Westie pups need to be educated from the time you take them home - The more time and effort you can put into them as babies will make life so much more enjoyable as adults for both you and them.
Don't make the mistake of thinking they are TOO CUTE! They grow up very quick
Health - Do not use this information to replace consulting your vet.
Why should I de-sex my dog?
As there is no guarantee of the age of the pet shop pup therefor there is no guarantee of the immunity of the pup.
I had a phone-call from a very excited friend who was getting her pup over from interstate from a registered breeder - he has had his first vaccinations and was wormed every two weeks - she had the security knowing that the breeder has done all that was possible to ensure her pup was healthy. The down-side of this call was that a work-mate of her had just bought a 'seven week old' lab pup over from interstate. He arrived over with his litter mates who, they were told, were heading of to a pet-shop.
They had only had this pup for a few days when it took sick and finally after a short struggle with life and intensive vet care had lost hes life to Parvo.
NO PUP SHOULD LEAVE THEIR BIRTH HOME UNTIL THEY ARE EIGHT (8) WEEKS OF AGE - the immunity has not matured enough to accept any form of infection that they may have come in contact with.
The pup may look well and healthy with all that coat to the average person - the coat could be covering signs of other health issues. If the pup hasn't been treated correctly for worms they may have a bloated abdomen which doesn't match the rest of the slight body.
Should I allow my dog to have a litter before de-sexing her?
There is no medical reason that suggests that your dog, either male or female, would benifit from having a season.
I have seen my pups return after many years and they have certainly not been stunted in growth or personality due to being desexed at an early age. In fact they are probably more happy as they are settled and stable in their own personality and their owners know exactly what to expect from them.
I've heard that westies have skin issues - is it genetic?
Skin disorders can be broken down to 4 main catagories
1. Genetic - this is what every-one fears!
N.B. This condition is not as prevelant here as some think - The
other conditions below are often mistaken for this
I started writing out information about this however I have found this
site that explains it in more depth. www.upei.ca/~cidd/intro.htm
(follow leads - dog breeds - west highland white terrier - seborrhea)
Please contact me if you have any other questions about this!
2. Environmental
- Fleas - Westies are know to have sensitivities to flea bites - the degree
of symptoms varies with each dog.
The affected dogs are usually irritated on their back near the
base of the tail!
- Mites - Mites live in sand, mulch, bark chip and other substrates.
Bury under the skin and shows as small pimples - affects mainly
abdomen and inner thighs - this area is most in contact with the
substrate
Advocate is a spot-on product that will help to erradicate
these and the symptoms!
- Plants/grasses - These alone can cause unwanted reaction to the westie skin
The paws - between the pads are usually affected
the dog will be licking and chewing at the paws
the paws will be red and swollen between the pads
- Moisture - The moisture from the grass remaining in the pads can cause a fungal
build up thus causing irritation and the dog to begin chewing.
The westie is a double coated dog, this means they should have a
soft under-coat and a hard, water-proof undercoat.
After bathing or playing in heavy rain the coat needs to be totally
dried - ensuring that the undercoat is dried right to the skin.
If this isn't done - the coat remains moist for some hours - this
moisture along with the heat of the dog is a great breeding ground
for bacteria/fungal infection - this in turn becomes itchy and the
cycle will start over - Red, dry irritated skin
- Itchy skin
- Scratching
- Skin break down
- Infection -bacterial/fungal
- Vets - Anti-biotics/steroid eg prednisolone
- medicated shampoo - bath 2-3/week
This cycle will be continuous due to the striping of oils by bathing
so frequently!
3. Grooming - Westies do not produce the oils in their coat like other breeds do and
therefore they do not or should not have the 'doggy' odour as most other
breeds do!
Over bathing - dry out the skin which in turn will become itchy and red
the dog will scratch more causing the skin to break down
damaged open skin will be prone to infection - weeping
due to infection the dog will start to smell.
(bathing westies will be on a seperate question)
Although the westie is white - do not expect it to stay white
Brushing - westies need to be groomed on a regular basis to keep their skin
in healthy condition.
- grooming includes ensuring all the friction areas - arm pits are
maintained to prevent matting - this will cause discomfort and
the skin could break-down due to stress and build up of
moisture.
4. Diet - The skin is the largest organ of the body - Like us, what our dogs eat will
affect them and the skin is one of the first areas that we notice that
something is wrong.
Like us, dogs need a nutritious balanced diet - there are a lot of premium dry
foods available however I have found 'Supercoat Chicken' to be a great
quality food with-out the artificial colours/flavour/additives. It is also
readily available from super markets etc and affordable.
The cheaper quality foods tend to be not as nutritionally balanced and contain
artificial additives etc.
The artificial additives will cause issues with the skin.
Food scraps such as fatty cut offs, bacon, bacon fat - these are high salt
content
other food scraps should be avoided if it's not good for you it won't be good
for your dog.
Treating skin conditions is always a process of elimination (like with us) there-for,
unless severe, starting with diet, grooming and environmental will be a great place
to start - If these are the causative factor you should start noticing a difference
with-in the first couple of weeks.
If your dog is severe - consult your vet - the antibiotics and steroids will support
and heal the skin to allow your dog to feel more comfortable to see if these other
changes will make a difference!
REMEMBER CONSULT YOUR VET IF NEEDING TREATMENT
Pet Shops
Why are pet shops cheaper than breeders?
As a breeder registered with the Dogs S.A. - I have research to ensure that my foundation dogs are free from genetic health issues and are sound in temperament.
Pet shop pups come with no history of which can be followed up and there-for the new owner would not be aware of any genetic health issues that may have been inherited by the pup - some of these health issues do not show up until the pup is 6 months or older.
Many years ago a friend bought a cute 'bitsa' from a pet-shop - he was healthy for the first few months until he became increasingly lame. unfortunately there were multiple joint's affected and the cost of surgery was too great (no gaurentee that he would live a normal life if he survived the surgery). A hard decision had to be made and he was put down which was devistating to all the family.
There is no guarentee of the true breed of the pup - your baby may look like it's the 'real deal' while in the pet shop howerer as they grow the 'true identity' may start to show!
Another friend bought a 'King Charles Spaniel' pup from a pet shop only to find it is now twice the size and three
times the evergy of what their beloved dog was supposed to be.
Another friend bought a 'Beagle' from a pet shop only to find that there was some blood-hound hiding somewhee in
cute pup!
Pet shops do not provide after adoption care and support for the life of your friend.
I provide support to the adoptive family for the life of the dog! This support, at times has save the family from costly vet bills - foth the family and dog are winners through this.
There have been times when I haven't been able to help and the pup/dog has had to go to the vet for treatment.
Breeders are able to provide ongoing advice about your dogs weight, diet, nail trimming, dental care, flea protection and coat care,
The breeder would also know when their advice would be too limited for the issue at hand and therefor refer on the the vet.
Cheaper doesn't always mean the best as the 'cheaper' pup could end up by costing you so much more than you would have spent if your pu had come from a reputable breeder - the cost is not only money but also the emotional cost.
There isn't always a great difference between petshop prices and buying from a reputable preeder that has taken the time to breed and raise quality pups!
Pet shops have a greater variety of pups readily available to choose from!
A great number of the pups that are supplied to the pet shops are supplied by breeders such as the 'puppy farmers'
These pups are usually bred from bitches that have been bred from very early in life and are mated each season.
The bitches are 'breeding machines' and once they are no-longer viable for breeding they are usually destroyed if they
haven't died during giving birth or lack of proper care.
The 'parents' of these cute pups are usually kept in dirty conditions with little human contact.
The 'breeders' of these pups usually have no real idea of the father or the date of birth.
By buying from the pet shops you are encouraging this awful practice of puppy farming!
Help stop the suffering of these animals and shut them down by stop buying from pet shops!
The pup looks healthy and well cared for!
As there is no guarantee of the age of the pet shop pup therefor there is no guarantee of the immunity of the pup.
I had a phone-call from a very excited friend who was getting her pup over from interstate from a registered breeder - he has had his first vaccinations and was wormed every two weeks - she had the security knowing that the breeder has done all that was possible to ensure her pup was healthy. The down-side of this call was that a work-mate of her had just bought a 'seven week old' lab pup over from interstate. He arrived over with his litter mates who, they were told, were heading of to a pet-shop.
They had only had this pup for a few days when it took sick and finally after a short struggle with life and intensive vet care had lost hes life to Parvo.
NO PUP SHOULD LEAVE THEIR BIRTH HOME UNTIL THEY ARE EIGHT (8) WEEKS OF AGE - the immunity has not matured enough to accept any form of infection that they may have come in contact with.
The pup may look well and healthy with all that coat to the average person - the coat could be covering signs of other health issues. If the pup hasn't been treated correctly for worms they may have a bloated abdomen which doesn't match the rest of the slight body.
TO BUY FROM A REPUTABLE
BREEDER MAY COST A LITTLE
MORE BUT YOU GET SO MUCH MORE!!!
Long term you have a healthier dog and spend a lot less money and time at the vets!!!!